Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 2011
Paris: The art of striptease is no stranger to the Gaultier runway. This season the designer put a new twist on things by having his models made-up to look like chic Parisiennes in their 50s and 60s. As each silver-haired mannequin reached the end of the runway, she removed her outer layer of clothing and threw it onto a pile in front of the photographers. For a show based on the idea of undressing, there was barely an inch of skin on display. Leather-paneled trenchcoats, double-breasted jackets, and sequined cardigans were discarded to reveal ladylike pussycat-bow blouses, skirt suits, and boxy trousers. The outerwear pieces, including leather trenchcoats and fur-trimmed artic coats, were the strongest in the collection. Some of the more conservative looks veered a little too far in the direction of “old lady” to be desirable, losing the sense of irony. Nevertheless, button-up suede skirts and geometric-printed silk pieces stood out as great investment pieces. Best in show was a louche jumpsuit made up entirely of jet black beads that swished and shimmered seductively. A bit more of that sexiness would have gone a long way.

Color: Black / Earth / Burnt amber / Yellow / Camel / Emerald / Navy

Key Items: Wool and leather trenchcoats / Double-breasted jackets / Cashmere throws / Skirt suits / Wide-cut pants

Materials: Leather / Wool / Cashmere / lurex / Fur / Tweed / Jacquard / Suede / Silk

Print + Pattern: Pinstripe / Mini florals / Geometric diamond prints / Quilting / Tartan

Details + Trim
: Fur trim / Sequins / Jet beads

Accessories + Footwear: Narrow leather belts / Rectangular clutches / Patent leather gloves / Colored tights / Lace-up booties

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