Jean Paul Gaultier – Haute Couture S/S 2013

Paris: Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion’s eternal ethnographer, presented a cinematic multi-culti Couture spectacle to the strains of “La Vie en Rose” sung in Hindi. Much of the show was classic or vintage Gaultier. He conjured the Andulasian gypsy, descendant of India and last seen in his RTW S/S 2005 collection, with his patchwork traje de flamenca, fringed capes, and folkloric items like tabards and casaques. More direct references to India came in the form of saris, shalwar pants and duppatas, Eastern-style veils. Indian spices informed a cumin-colored muslin dress, a ruffled Spencer jacket in paprika, and a lemongrass yellow- and burgundy-striped crepe de chine gown. In the designer’s signature east-meets-west, high-meets-low manner, he mixed in Blonde Ambition-era conical bras and bustiers, and digitally stamped seamed denim on an elegant evening gown. The 70s hippie Material Girl mash-up was given even more complexity with intricate geometric beading and tribal jewelry, while platform sandals and a single pewter python trench coat added a dash of disco drama. The show came to a theatrical end when the bride lifted her gold-embroidered tulle hoop skirt to release three little gypsy girls who ebulliently escorted her down the runway. — Sharon Graubard

Silhouette: Mermaid / Columnar / Fit-and-flare / Hourglass

Colors: Sky blue / Violet / Saffron orange / Pewter / Charcoal / White/

Key Items: Flamenco skirt / Shalwar pants / Fringed capes / Striped evening gowns / Patchwork skirts / Fitted pantsuit

Materials: Muslin / Shantung / Lace / Python / Illusion tulle

Print + Pattern: Stripes/ Indian paiseys / Blue jean print

Details + Trim: Fringe / Studs / Beading / Embroidery / Python appliqué / Macramé / Patchwork

Footwear and Accessories: Sheer veils / Python corselet belts / Stacked bangles and cuffs / Chandelier earrings / Thong-style cutout wedge shoes / High-heeled platforms sandals/ Fringe suede papoose backpacks / Crystal bindis


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