Jean Paul Gaultier

Paris: A throwback on multiple levels, the Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 12 show at once referenced the histories of the designer and of runway in general. There was no music; instead, French weather presenter Charlotte Le Bon’s voice narrated as models walked the catwalk holding cards listing their look numbers. The collection was practically a JPG retrospective, boasting pinstriped suits, sailor bottoms, corsets and lace-up details, draped jersey dresses and jumpsuits, ethnic embellishments and underwear styled as outerwear among the offerings. Tattoos worn by edgy models updated retro 40s-style beauty. –Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / Masculine and tailored / Fluid / Body-con

Color: Navy / White / Cobalt / Steely blue / Peach / Nude / Coffee / Moss / Chartreuse / Neon green / True orange / Fire engine red

Key Items: Pantsuit / Trench / Button-up / Tailored vest / Corseted dress / Sailor pant / Matched set / Jersey jumpsuit / Lacey underpinning

Print + Pattern: Pinstripes / Painterly florals / Honeycomb prints / Tattoo motifs

Materials: Silk / Jersey / Leather / Cotton shirtings / Mesh / Gauze / Lace / Tulle

Details + Trim: Soutache embroidery / Button and lace-up details / Sailor cuts / Asymmetry / Racerbacks / Peplums / Self-belts / Hoods / Drawstrings

Accessories + Footwear: Corsets / Leather cord belts / Heeled Mary Janes / Short boots / Ankle socks / Metal and crocheted jewelry / Fishnets / Printed tights / Plastic eyewear

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