Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 11
Paris: With excerpts from the film Black Swan on the soundtrack, Jean Paul Gaultier sent out new takes on his classic looks with ballet elements tossed in the mix. The show opened with a pinstriped pantsuit – a Gaultier favorite – and continued with other signatures, including deconstructed trench coats. A khaki version of the trench was arguably the best look of the show, its airy mousseline trailing behind for an ethereal effect. Both short and long versions of the tutu connected with the Black Swan theme; the most striking of which was styled under a grommeted and spiked black velvet motorcycle jacket, and its dual toughness and fragility captured the dark drama of the film. The penultimate look featured a reprise of the infamous conical bra, incorporated into a white gown worn by Ève Salvail, whose shaved and tattooed head rocked the fashion world when she began modeling for Gaultier in the 90s, and for the finale, French chanteuse Mylène Farmer sashayed down the runway in another version of the black tutu/black motorcycle jacket combo. –Joanna Manganaro

Color: Black / Charcoal / Tan / Emerald green / Plum / Burnt umber / Navy / Pewter

Key Items: Tailored pantsuits / Deconstructed trench coats / Peplum jackets / Pencil skirts / Bustiers / Kimono jackets / Tutu skirts / Motorcycle jackets

Materials: Wool / Leather / Silk faille / Velvet / Lace / Chiffon / Mousseline / Fur

Prints + Patterns: Asian motifs / Fair Isle / Bright watercolor florals

Details + Trim: Fur collars / Grommets / Metal paillettes / Feather or fur appliqués / Tiered fringe / Oversized collars / Conical bras

Accessories + Footwear: Feather hairpieces / Leather waist belts / Long leather gloves / Jewel tone tights / Lace-up ribbon heels

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