May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: It was a case of biker-meets-ballet or maybe leather daddy-meets-diva at Jean Paul Gaultier, where the designer embraced his love of fetish-wear, fur and graceful gowns. On top were biker jackets and moulded, high-neck bustier tops, complete with ribbing, press-stud fastenings (often unfastened at one shoulder), and zippers, while legs were veiled in billowing lengths of sheer chiffon. Military influences were also present in trench coats and wool pea coats, and the autumnal, earthy hues of brick, burgundy and forest green. The collection’s key print mirrored the runway backdrop, featuring a grid of silhouetted bodies, reminiscent of a stage piece from one of Madonna’s tours. Sumptuous, primal textures were also in force, from lush astrakhan to supple leathers and rich velvets and cashmere. After Spring’s OTT 80s pop star extravaganza, this was a much more grounded affair, replacing fancy dress with pavement-pounding luxury. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Military / Bustier / Peplum
Color: Ecru / Cranberry / Burgundy / Paprika / Black / Stone / Mud / Forest Green / Slate / Charcoal / Violet / Red / Brick / Mustard / Mahogany / Bronze / Rust
Key Items: Leather jackets / Long chiffon skirts & dresses / Trench coats / Pea Coats / Leather & spandex leggings / Moulded peplum tops / Knit sweaters & dresses / Tailored pants / Blanket coats / Fur coats & jackets / Knit, fur & velvet wraps / Aviator jackets
Materials: Chiffon / Fur / Leather / Velvet / Merino / Angora / Mohair / Cashmere / Astrakhan / Sheepskin / Spandex
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Digital face print / Silhouetted bodies print / Tartan / Patchwork
Details + Trim: Brass buttons / Wide belts / Studs / Zippers / Cut-away shoulders / Ribbing / Contrast topstitching / Funnel & cowl necks / Fan pleats / Leather fringing
Accessories + Footwear: Silver rings / Silver ear cuffs & earrings / Silver cuffs and chokers / Lace-up platform boots & shoes / Suede & patent leather knee boots / Leather ankle boots / Leather pumps / Leather gloves / Clutch bags / Opaque tights / Waist belts
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