Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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HALF AND HALF
New York: For Pre-Fall, Jean Paul Gaultier played with asymmetry, slicing some of his signature items down the center and reattaching them with other pieces. The opening look – a hybrid motorcycle jacket and menswear-inspired coat – was the perfect example of this technique. Gaultier went on to mix pantsuits with knitwear and cardigans with turtlenecks, among other combinations. In addition to the asymmetry, the Gaultier revisited pinstriped suitings, offering them in the form of classic tailored pantsuits, as well as a pair of pleated knee-length shorts. Knits were a highlight; besides the classic turtlenecks that served as an underlayer for many looks, there were sophisticated sheaths (often styled over tailored trousers), boxy sweaters, and an eye-catching geometric-patterned intarsia dress. The prints in the collection featured different takes on dots, sometimes combined for a mélange of motifs. This isn’t the first time Gaultier has revisited his back catalog, but this particular reinvention of his classics looked contemporary and fresh.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Asymmetrical / Long layers / Hourglass / Boxy / Slouchy / Long + languid
Color: Camel / Black / Navy / Khaki / Charcoal / Cool brown / Saturated teal / Rust / Pumpkin / Lipstick red
Key Items: Coat/motorcycle jacket hybrids / Pinstriped suit and shorts / Printed silk dress / Intarsia dress / Hourglass-shaped outerwear
Materials: Pinstriped suitings / Shiny suitings / Felted wool / Lustrous leather / Fine-gauge cashmere yarns / Medium-gauge yarns / Printed silks / Tinsel-like pile / Fur
Print + Pattern: Assorted dot patterns / Constructivist geometrics / Stripes
Details + Trim: Zippers / Piecing / Turtlenecks / Contrast sleeves / Accordion pleats / Peplums / Trench details / Curved waist seams
Accessories + Footwear: Leather gloves / Fur scarves / Large totes / Long clutches / Platform pumps / Over-the-knee boots / Combat boots
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