May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: From tuxedo pantsuits to cone bras, Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring show read like a greatest hits compilation, with the designer bringing back the looks that have defined his career. As Gaultier’s heyday was the eighties and early nineties, many of the items had a retro feel. Shoulders were sharp, pants were tapered, and there was lots of innerwear-as-outerwear. But, cyclical as fashion is, each of these throwback styles has made appearances on the runways this season. Another on-trend moment was the series of Asian-inspired looks. Highlighted with bright tones, Gaultier’s version of the theme was flamboyant and fun. Elaborate hair and makeup turned models into younger versions of Boy George, Madonna, Annie Lennox, David Bowie, and Michael Jackson. It was fitting that Gaultier paid homage to these titans of eighties culture, as he himself belongs among them. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Wide-shouldered / Constructed hourglass / Long layers / Roomy
Color: Black / White / Pastel pink / Bright yellow / Soft blue / Poppy / Peach / Lime / Nude / Khaki / True red / Navy / Taupe / Electric blue / Magenta / Silver / Burgundy / Dusty rose / Hot pink
Key Items: Tuxedos / Bustier dresses / Kimonos / Blouson jackets / Fringe knit separates / Evening dresses with sheer panels
Materials: Matte and pinstriped suitings / Satin / Crisp cotton / Lace / Mesh / Fluid silks / Chiffon / Jacquard / Twill organza / Faded denim / Leather / Shiny jersey
Print + Pattern: Kimono florals / Stars / Pinstripes
Details + Trim: Bustier details / Sheer panels / Cutouts / Double-breasted closures / Sequins / Fringe
Accessories + Footwear: Military-inspired hats / Fedoras / Dangling earrings / Hoop earrings / Jet bead necklaces / Breastplate necklaces / Stacked cuffs / Embellished rings / Wrist gloves / Skinny belts / Fishnet hosiery / Platform strappy knee-high boots / Platform strappy mid-calf boots / Platform ankle-strap sandals
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