Jan 04, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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FROM PARIS, WITH LOVE
Paris: Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture collection for fall had a slew of interrelated references, with Paris as thread that connected them all. First there was George Sand, the cross-dressing, public-smoking female French novelist. Erin O’Conner, playing Sand in tux and tails, was the dramatic opening of the collection. Gaultier went on to trot out several versions of the tuxedo and added tails to dresses and jackets throughout the collection. Sand’s gender bending may have inspired Gaultier to use the trans-gender model Andrej Pejic for women’s dresses, rather than the handful of men’s looks that were included in the show. Sand was the lover of Alfred de Musset, whose book Confession of a Child of the Century was made into a recent film starring Pete Doherty. Doherty’s music was the soundtrack for the show. Jumping ahead a few decades, Art Deco designs were pieced onto dresses and jackets, and glamorous flapper looks were inserted here and there. The influential 1927 film Metropolis even seemed to have been an influence, as gold metal cage pieces appeared. Though the more flamboyant pieces captured Gaultier’s showman’s nature, some of the best were the quieter looks. A boxy dress made from camel-colored wool was understated and chic, a perfect counterbalance to all the glitz and glamour. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Boxy / Constructed hourglass / Columnar / Broad-shouldered
Color: Black / Royal purple / Chartreuse / Gold / Red / Neon yellow / Camel / Pale blue / Mint
Key Items: Tuxedo / Camel shift / Flapper dresses / Pieced eveningwear
Materials: Wool suitings / Felted wool / Tulle / Chiffon / Leather / Lamé / Taffeta / Lace / Silk charmeuse / Satin / Croc / Metal / Fur
Print + Pattern: Asian-inspired dragons / Art Deco geometrics /
Details + Trim: Beading / Embroidery / Silky fringe / Piecing / Fabric appliqués / Contrast sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled hairnets / Patent leather chokers / Top hats / Black tusk earrings / Long leather gloves / Sheer black hosiery / Colored opaque hosiery / Platform lattice over-the-knee and ankle boots
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