Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

Paris: Staged against a murky rain forest entryway, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s Spring show conjured an urban jungle, a motif replicated throughout his presentation. As kitschy as usual, the designer’s prints and graphics were an interesting combination of tropical foliage and skyscrapers, with several toothy illustrated monsters thrown in for good measure. Angular shoulders mimicked Castelbajac’s cityscape silhouettes, resulting in boxy jackets and tailored shift dresses, while laddered PVC raincoats were a bit too extreme for normal wear. Spring’s softer and sportier pieces were the best representation of the season, in particular silky baseball jackets of various lengths, intarsia knit skirt suits and voluminous tank dresses with smocked necklines.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Square & strong / Slim / Fit & flare

Color: Black / Emerald / White / Tan / Canary yellow / Turquoise / Cobalt / Grey

Key Items: Printed shift dresses / Satin baseball jackets / Leggings / Oversized tunics / Matched set suiting / Patched leather trenches & coat dresses / Articulated shoulder motorcycle jackets / Voluminous tank dresses

Materials: PVC / Satin / Jersey / Printed silk / Taffeta / Leather / Intarsia knits

Print + Pattern: Tropical prints / Urban skyscraper repeats / Colorblocking / Illustrated monsters / Mirrored repeats / Fractured geometrics / Stripes / Grids

Details + Trim: Self belts / Peaked shoulders / Ruffles / Scalloped edges / Chain embellishments / Quilting & ribbing / Cutouts / Embroidery / Zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Molded platform pumps / Oversized totes / Corset belts / Chain strap satchels / Weekend bags / Lace-up high heel loafers


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