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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

AVIAN INFLUENCE
Paris: Although there were plenty of bold graphics this season at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the overall effect seemed toned-down for the colorful designer, with icy blues and lovely ombré encouraging a soothing mood. Stately owls and eagles were the basis of Fall’s prints and graphics, appearing as both abstract and Native American totem-inspired motifs throughout the presentation. Mirrored feather designs for trousers and silk dresses were sophisticated options, while dense totem repeats achieved fresh graphic impact in black and red. Simple a-line skirts, sheath dresses and elongated bomber jackets allowed space for Castelbajac’s oversized prints, while his more difficult theatrics, like feather trimmed caftans, gothic hoods and enormous funnel necks, were relegated to the show’s finale.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Relaxed / Slim / Fitted / A-line / Long and lean

Color: Bright yellow / Black / White / Cream / Cobalt / Bronze / Pale blue / Tangerine / Poppy red

Key Items: Intarsia knit sweaters / Elongated bomber jackets / Slim suiting / Anoraks / Printed silk tunics / Printed sheath dresses / A-line miniskirts / Column skirts / Loose silk trousers / Blanket coats / Motorcycle jackets / Capes / Fur-trimmed jackets / Bubble skirts / Turtlenecks

Materials: Intarsia knits / Tweed / Jersey / Chiffon / Satin / Leather / Wool / Cashmere / Fur / Feathers

Print + Pattern: Owl graphics / Eagle graphics / Ombré / Stripes / Plaid / Totem pole graphics / Geometrics / Message graphics / Polka dots / Grids

Details + Trim: Ribbing / Zippers / Animal appliqué / Asymmetry / Quilting / Utility pockets / Quilted collars / Buckles / Cowl necks / Hoods / Fringe / Contrast collars / Feather trim / Fur sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Sheer hosiery / Leather gloves / Pumps / Satchel bags / Leather tote bags / Wrapped leather belts / Cassette tape bib necklaces / Knee-high leather boots / Molded pendant necklaces / Patchwork ankle boots / Woven clutches

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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