May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: For his second collection as guest designer of renowned knitwear house TSE, Jason Wu was inspired by the textured surfaces and abstract, collaged constructions of Picasso’s sculptures. The resulting presentation had a sense of pared-down sophistication in the spirit of Phoebe Philo at Celine. High-waisted, wide-leg trousers were right on trend, and pleated shorts and wrap skirts were prim and a bit preppy. Crisp linen pants were slim and trim, cropped just above the ankle. And then there were the knits. An oatmeal ribbed cardigan with caramel leather front panels and sleeves was an ode to Picasso’s mixed materials, while a grey-blue, ultra-fine-gauge sweater was digitally printed with red stripes referencing artist Barnett Newman. Off-center cable stitches added a slightly quirky touch for sheer long-sleeved sweaters, but the most unique creation was undoubtedly the stitched chiffon “yarn” knitted into dresses and a standout space-dyed cardigan. Wu seems to be thriving in this collaboration, exploring a more subdued, less girly aesthetic. One hopes the relationship will continue for seasons to come.
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