Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: Helmut Newton’s photography has been heavily mined as a source of fashion inspiration, but for a conservative designer like Jason Wu this stark and sexy look is still new. Continuing in the slickly urbane direction he established last Fall while adding a dash of S&M, Wu concentrated on Newton’s beloved black and white for body-conscious leather apron dresses, cigarette pants and point d’esprit tops. Although these aggressive pieces were undeniably well-executed, featuring gorgeous lace backs and corset boning, they were ultimately outshined by draped nude dresses, prim tuxedo blouses and navy scallop-hem miniskirts. Closing on ensembles which balanced soft and sexy in equal measure, Wu’s S/S 13 found its footing when synthesizing, rather than swallowing, his provocative inspiration.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Body-conscious / A-line / Fitted
Color: Black / Nude / White / Coral / Navy
Key Items: Fitted leather corset dresses / Sheer cropped jackets / Apron dresses / Full chiffon miniskirts / Sleeveless blouses / Cigarette pants / Peplum dresses / Lace miniskirts
Materials: Leather / Point d’esprit / Tulle / Chiffon / Sheer silk / Stretch satin
Print + Pattern: Floral x-ray prints / Dots
Details + Trim: Cutouts / Sheer panels / Crocodile embossing / Pearl and crystal beading / Lace trim / Peplums / Scalloped edges / Ruffles / Open backs
Accessories + Footwear: Pearl embellished pumps / Strappy sandals / Hatbox bags / Suspenders / Net gloves / Hard clutches / Leather harnesses / Studded belts / Peep-toe booties / Bow belts
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