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Jason Wu

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CHEMICAL REACTION

New York: The meteoric rise of Jason Wu is every young designer’s dream. Just over a year ago, Wu had a small operation, but after Michelle Obama’s endorsement on Inauguration night, his business expanded exponentially. His current collection demonstrates that Wu is still growing into his new status. Determined not to be a one-hit wonder, the designer expanded on the easy separates he created for his excellent Pre Fall presentation, but this collection lacked the cohesion and the tight edit. Easy sweaters, plaid coats, cropped blazers and straight skirts looked effortless and are sure to appeal to a cool crowd, and prints based on Irving Penn photos of chemical spills gave outerwear an edge. But the same prints were used in gold leaf for evening and lost their moody effect, feeling overworked and a little too precious on duchesse satin sheaths. Wu seemed most confident with his signature sweet cocktail dresses. The best of the batch featured chiffon with a faded floral print wrapped around a stiff foundational layer.

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