May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Hot on the heels of his second inaugural gown triumph, Jason Wu’s F/W 13 collection was a confident study of the seductive and feminine clothes he does best, a powerful vote for the modern relevance of Helmut Newton-style fashion. What makes Wu’s version of this classic look distinct is his ability to temper seduction with sweetness, producing racy cutout knit tops but pairing them with flippy, ponyhair miniskirts, or softening a leather halter dress with voluminous mottled ostrich feathers. Tuxedo styling, always a favorite of the designer, reappeared as did polka dots and sheer panels, while peplum tops with flowing train hems over trousers were a new experiment. Dubbing the presentation “extreme femininity,” Wu proved that pushing the envelope has more than paid off for this young talent.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Nipped waist / Tailored / A-line / Slim
Color: Black / White / Bone / Nude / Metallic grey / Cherry red / Coppery coco / Vibrant violet
Key Items: Cropped stovepipe trousers / Cotton shirtdresses / Trench coats / Stand collar shirts / Belted vests / Pleated a-line skirts / Nipped waist jackets / Bustier cocktail dresses / Ostrich feather minidresses / Peplum halter tops
Materials: Satin / Velvet / Fox and mink fur / Crêpe de Chine / Duchess satin / Bonded lace / Wool / Satin faced twill / Cotton / Paneled jersey / Point d’esprit georgette / Snakeskin / Ponyhair / Ostrich feathers
Print + Pattern: Snakeskin / Polka dots / Stripes
Details + Trim: Stand collars / Leather trim / Peplums / Epaulettes / Fur trim / Patch pockets / Self belts / Fur pockets / Zippers / Contrast buttons / Pleating / Sheer cutouts
Accessories + Footwear: Peep toe ankle boots / Strappy cris-cross heels / Leather gloves / Box clutches
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