James Long’s creative free-form


London: Individuality and freedom of expression were the key messages at James Long’s S/S 16 bohemian parade of decorative but wearable patchwork clothing, energised by the free-form, multi-coloured ensemble attitude. “I was looking at people who are so natural in their clothing, they think they’are blending in, but they’re totally not” said James. The clothes had a 90’s feel with straight leg denim jeans, bomber jackets and cropped leather hoodies while formal and informal codes mingled together, such as dinner jackets in lightweight nylon or ruffled shirts in a paisley print paired with vivid neon scribble print track pants – even gym and beach shorts were worn with waistcoats that messed with the conventions of men’s styling. Denim made up the core of the looks and came tie-dyed, patchworked, and panelled – mimicking regency pinstripes and creating a chevron patterning. A hand painted denim jacket gave an artisanal feel that continued with a specially woven cloth resembling a digital ‘glitch’ pattern – this artwork was enlarged for both hand-knitted and jacquard knitwear creating a collage of broken lines and grids. There was plenty going on, but regardless, this was a well thought-out, strong and accomplished outing for Long. – Tom Crisp

Theme: Creative Free-form

Key Colours: Multicolour ensemble

Materials and Trims: Denim, Lightweight nylon, Custom weaves, Jacquard knit, Cotton

Print and Pattern: Camouflage, Chinoisierie, Lines and grids, Regency pinstripes, Chevrons, Neon scribble print by James Davison

Accessories and Footwear: Cutaway and tasselled trainers, Leather backpack

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