May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: Up-and-coming London designer James Long is best known for his knitwear, but he greatly expanded his repertoire for fall, including woven blanket wools, denim, and even fur in his collection. Marled and mélange yarns – some mixing disparate materials – made for sweaters that were rich in texture and tone. Looped yarns and fringe added a playful element, while beaded and appliquéd sweaters had an innocent, DIY feel. As for wovens, Long kept it simple with pleated skirts, A-line jackets, and slouchy jeans. Piecing, in addition to subtle stripes and texture patterns added visual interest. The two fur coats in the presentation were simple and low-key, of a piece with the casual mood of the rest of the offering. Long has been putting out menswear collections for over two years now, but this is only his second formal women’s outing. His unique knits and covetable separates showed that he can easily translate his aesthetic to appeal to a different market. With this strong showing, Long proved he’s one to watch in coming seasons. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long layers / Slouchy
Color: Navy / Periwinkle / Dusty blue / Midnight blue / Pale blue / Black / White
Key Items: Sweaters / Slouchy printed jeans / Pleated skirts
Materials: Marled yarns / Melange yarns / Fuzzy pile yarns / Faded denim / Blanket wool / Striated linen / Shaggy fur / Leather
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Chevrons / Texture prints / Abstract geometrics
Details + Trim: Fabric appliqués / Beading / Quilting / Piecing / Leather collars and binding
Accessories + Footwear: Furry knitted caps and berets / Small pieced leather cross-body bags / Opaque tights / Cap-toe or painted slippers
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