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Jacobs closes NYFW with a fizz as coherent collection delivers colour, volume with a 60s vibe

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs as a label has had its ups and its downs and it’s hard to get a view of exactly how it’s doing in the LVMH stable. All the French luxury giant said at its last results was Marc Jacobs “strengthened its product offering and continued its restructuring”.

So we’re assuming sales aren’t exactly leaping ahead. And Jacobs has had to fend off rumours that he was thinking of quitting and that the sparkle has gone out of the brand.

Despite other rumours that the show itself might not happen, the label still retains its place as one of the must-see New York Fashion Week events and during a week in which a number of big names defected to other key fashion cities, it was certainly a show that was needed to give some fizz to the schedule. Anna Wintour clearly thought so, as she was in place on time along with a packed house of fashion movers and shakers.

There were celebs too, like Cindy Crawford watching her daughter Kaia Gerber, plus Nicki Minaj, Courtney Love and actress Dianna Agron. Clearly, Marc Jacobs still matters.

So he closed NYFW on Wednesday and was there any fizz? Yes. Having apparently worked through the confusion that some of the collections had shown after the Marc by Marc Jacobs label was folded into the main Marc Jacobs line, he presented his most coherent collection for some time.

And he presented it in a forum that forgot about theatricality and other distractions. This was all about models striding down the runway without even any music to divert attention to what the designer’s thinking might have been rather than the actual clothes.

The celebrity model cast (Gerber, Kendall Jenner, the Hadids) wore clothes that included a lot of archive references and some interesting turbans (courtesy of Stephen Jones) the added to an Arabian Nights feel.

The collection was big on volume, oversized jackets, giant bikers, wide, slouchy pants, super-sized knits, wide coats (both retro influenced with furry or feather collars and more sporty), belted jumpsuits, plus giant sporty separates with signature daisy prints.

There was an Arabian Nights-meets-1960s edge to many pieces for evening with ‘60s jet set’ loose print top and harem pants combos or caftan-influenced sheer dresses.

Beading and embellishment played a big part in the after-dark looks with the vest tops that were completely constructed from varying sizes of bead being the ultimate example of this.

And colour was key. Pale or intense pinks, searing orange, lemon, emerald green, coral, muted blues, mint green and black and white all added to the exuberance of the collection, even if the exuberance of the runway was muted by Jacobs adding music only for the finale.

But while the runway was largely silent, the venue didn’t stay that way, of course. The audience made it very clear that they loved it all and also made it clear that it’s way too early to count Marc Jacobs out just yet.

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