May 17, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
London’s premium menswear trade show Jacket Required hosted its sixth edition this week (February 5-6) bringing together a tightly edited selection of the most current menswear labels from around the world. Its new East London residency saw the show expand to its biggest and best yet, with over 150 brands showcasing wares from across the denim, urban and premium sectors. Here Stylesight’s denim team gives you a rundown of the best jeanswear offerings from the show.
While most of the menswear action wrapped up earlier last month, Jacket Required – Britain’s biannual answer to Pitti Uomo ensured that all is not over yet. The F/W 14 edition saw the show relocate to its new home, The Old Truman Brewery in East London. The huge industrial space allowed the team to invite back its regulars as well as an additional 50 newcomers to make it the biggest yet.
This season saw a strong focus on the jeanswear sector, with a strong roster of denim brands from across Europe, America, and Japan showcasing their latest wares. Among this international selection was a very notable British collective including Endrime, Flying Horse, Blue Collar Worker, newcomers Denim Is Everything (D.I.E.) as well as Welsh-based label Huit. Other notable brands like Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Lee 101, Denham the Jeanmaker and Diesel nodded to the fairs growing relevance within the trade show calendar, while niche names like Left Field NYC and Ordinary Fits of Japan reinforced the shows “hand-picked” stance. What’s more, this edition was given even more purpose, with the creative team at The Narrative styling the show with a collection of British-made furniture and vintage pieces throughout the vast space.
From Endrime’s hand-crafted denims to Diesel’s eye-popping washes, we take you inside the industrial halls of Brick Lane’s Old Truman Brewery to bring you some of our favorite items on offer…
The team at Blue Collar Worker continue to evolve their signature British workwear line for the F/W 2014 using premium quality denims and trawling influences from traditional “archive” workwear pieces from the 1930s, `40s and `50s. This season sees the introduction of a limited edition line of jeans, comprising of two fits in top grade 14oz Japanese selvedge denim. As a personal touch, each jean carries individual numbering contained within a copper “snuff box”, and is limited to 150 pairs per style. The brand also presented a solid selection of separates like cotton coats, denim over-shirts, checked work shirts and an expanded range of indigo jersey products.
Debuting at Jacket Required, Welsh-based denim label Huit stunned press and buyers with their domestically produced raw denims. With production and design taking place in their home town of Cardigan, Wales founders David and Claire Hieatt have made a name for themselves after reviving the denim industry in the area, which has been dead for over a decade. Utilizing the skilled machinists with specialist knowledge of making jeans, the pair focus on doing “one thing well”, making the best jeans that time and skill allow. For fall, a small selection of mens fits are offered including a premium Japanese selvedge and one in organic denim (sourced in Turkey). Each pair is hand-crafted by the Grand Masters of Cardigan Bay and comes with a unique number that allows wearers to register and record the story of their jeans through the dedicated “HistoryTag” website. It’s all about wearing your own history and saving memories.
US denim veterans Left Field brought a more rugged offering of denim at the fair with their selection of vintage-inspired wares. For fall Christian McCann presented a well rounded collection of well-made raw denims, jackets and knits, that will stand the test of time not just quality-wise, but trend-wise too. McCann’s penchant for select premium fabrics resulted in a stunning array of Japanese selvedge denims in double indigo twills, neppy greys and an great 10oz thats perfect for the less hardcore denim fans. New pieces for this season include an indigo rope dyed knit pant (which they will be running a fade contest for soon) and a military-inspired steel grey, slubby chambray shirt.
Local East-London brand and Jacket Required newcomer Endrime, debuted at the show for fall with its second collection of impeccably made denims. Founder and designer Mohsin was on hand to take us through the collection and give a super detailed rundown on the new season. The fall collection sees Mohsin expand beyond the 3-D ergonomic concept that put him on the map with a selection of classic rugged fits like a stunning neppy 18oz raw, a selection of vintage-inspired workwear shirts and a must-have blanket lined trucker – all of which feature his amazing knack for ergonomic tailoring, pattern cutting and modern construction. Another key highlight was an impressive chino that features a hand-sketched jean printed onto it (pictured above is the pant along with the sketch on the gift box). Read more on the brand here.
Italian denim giants Diesel showcased a selection of new pieces from newly appointed artistic director Nicola Formichetti. A few of the signature pieces included a metal-inspired patched sleeveless jacket and a £1000 destroyed jean that truly showcases Diesel’s incredible high level of detail of construction and treatments. The brand also expands upon its Jogg-Jean range with some new and exciting laundry treatments and indigo dyes that make the non-denim option almost impossible to tell from a regular jean.
Newly launched Denim Is Everything (D.I.E.) made its debut at the show with its first ever collection of British designed jeans. Presenting a selection of classic silhouettes with a contemporary attitude the brand prides itself on its offering of fine hardwearing denims at a competitive price. Focus is given to functional, practical, workwear influenced pieces, coupled with an overt attention to detail in terms of garment construction and finish. Wash options are varied from raw through to advanced vintage finishes and each garment is silently signed off with subtle signature peg motifs throughout. A well edited selection of jean fits are offered as well as chore coats, work shirts and complementary indigo jersey separates.
Below are some more highlights from a few of the many great denim and workwear brands showing at Jacket Required:
Finally, check out the video below for a look at what went down on the first day of the show.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.