Jun 07, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Bridging the gap between London’s naturally creative work ethic and its obvious lack of a reputable menswear trade show presence, Jacket Required‘s latest offering reinforced a clear message that menswear in London is certainly regaining steam.
Set at the tail end of other competing trade shows, Jacket Required took place last weekend (June 13-14) for its third edition. The show’s growing popularity was signaled by its move to a larger location, Bloomsbury Square’s Victoria House, as well as the thriving list of high profile vendors including Levi’s XX and Lee 101 who had pulled out of this season’s Bread and Butter showcase. The show was even picked up by American menswear maestro Mark McNairy, who graced the show with his presence for both days.
The show’s arrival into the London scene was driven by a need to fill a void in the world of U.K. menswear. Focusing on a mantra of “quality of brands, diversity of offering and uniqueness of experience,” the men behind the show, Craig Ford, Mark Batista and Andrew Parfitt, are ensuring that buyers and editors alike come away with a renewed appreciation for the place London holds in updated tradition. Standout brands for S/S 13 included Universal Works, Denham, Levi’s Vintage Clothing and its imprint Made & Crafted, and Bedwin and the Heartbreakers, as well as international newcomers like Denim Demon, Anerkjendt, Humor, and local labels Guild of Labour and Blue Collar Worker.
Seasonal favorites Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Made & Crafted delivered yet another refreshing assortment for the S/S 13 season. Classic work shirts and Westerns were updated with folkloric embroideries and 90s-inspired geometrics, while slim 519 pants in neutral pastel shades provided an energetic boost to the rich indigo palette of stifel print chore coats and saturated worker pants. Part of the concept was based on the first riveted jean – and Levi’s is in the unique position of not only having invented this product, but also having kept it useful and desirable in its original form after 139 years.
We were first introduced to Danish label Anerkjendt at their debut season in Copenhagen for F/W 12. Launched by the respected Per Johansen, founder of men’s young fashion brand Humör (and also women’s young fashion brands Nümph and Rütme), Anerkjendt is a new menswear line of high quality denim and rich seperates that pools the creative resources of Humör with heritage-inspired garments. The new season of approachable streetwear was translated through simple workwear silhouettes, highlighted camo jacquards, tactile needle punched surfaces and subtle ethnic embroideries. Short-sleeve shirts and cargo shorts took on a 50s tourist theme, with palm prints and fresh summer hues breathing summer warmth into the collection.
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