Jul 18, 2018 | By Laura Welch
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London: Perhaps one of London`s most anticipated shows this season, J. W. Anderson used Martin Scorsese`s documentary about the American writer Fran Lebowitz as a starting point for his Spring 2016 collection. Anderson’s retro futuristic designs tapped once again into the 1980’s, yet implemented it in a new way.
Teenie weenie wire bras opened the line-up followed by amplified leg-of-mutton sleeves paired with balloon trousers in clashing wallpaper prints and Keith Haring squiggles. Anderson mentioned backstage: “If you don`t get it, it doesn’t matter”, which also seems the leitmotif in Lebowitz’s career. Nonetheless he has built one of the most relevant careers as a London fashion designer.
Streamlined engineered knit sets were cinched at the wrists and ankles and edged in contrast stitching. Fabrics were innovative, treated and plasticised, giving them a wet-look aesthetic. Leather was ruched, while knit zip-ups had frilled collars. The collection was a fusion of many ideas yet focusing on a uniform approach.
Theme: A designer’s odyssey.
Key items: Tiny cupped bras, high-waist flared trousers, knit tops, balloon trousers, leg-of-mutton sleeves, oversized ruffle dress, slip dress, mini skirt, lace top, camisole top, tunic top, tailoring, tracksuit, cycling shorts.
Colour: Black, white, blush pink, light grey, midnight blue, pale yellow, turquoise, red, tan, light blue.
Materials and trims: Engineered knit, coated cotton, leather, lace, silk, overlocking stitch trim.
Print and Pattern: Keith Haring squiggle and doodles.
Footwear and accessories: Square toe high vamp heel, Square toe boot, Cross-body bag, Paper bag, Swirling silver chocker and bracelets.
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