Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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CODE AND THEORY
London: All eyes were on 28-year old Irish designer J.W. Anderson today following his best-selling Topshop line, January’s boundary-pushing menswear show and his recent appointment to design a capsule collection for Versus. Titled Semiology of the Self, FW 13 continued the conversation between minimalism and cerebral deconstruction, offering up both challenging and wearable garments with an emphasis on technique. In the gathered leather shell tops and skirts with drawstring detailing, the kooky, asymmetric cape-sleeve hybrids, the trailing ticker-tape attachments and contrast rectangle segments that bound knit tops to the body, Anderson looks at garments with a purist’s eye, searching for ways to construct completely new silhouettes. But he’s pragmatic, too, also including parachute pants in leathers and synthetics, cozy fur pocket-front tunics, and cool flared dresses that were a riff on nun’s habits. And, just for kicks, there was a race car comic strip print in there, too, proving that although his clothes can appear rather serious, Anderson doesn’t take himself too seriously. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Strict / Asymmetric / Gathered / Cloaked / Deconstructed
Color: Black / Charcoal / White / Flesh / Mandarin / Blush / Buttercup / Dove gray / Slate / Wheat / Navy
Key Items: Parachute pants / High neck minidresses with thigh slits / Fur tunics / Gathered asymmetric tops and skirts / Flare-sleeve, curved hem tunic dresses / Funnel and turtleneck tops / Cloak dresses
Materials: Wool felt / Leather / Cotton / Nylon / Fur / Silk / Jersey / Merino knits
Print + Pattern: Motor racing-themed comic strip print
Details + Trim: Gathered funnel and turtle necklines / Bateau necklines / Thigh slits / Bound rectangle panels / Crisscross tape straps across hips / Pouch pockets / Drawstring closures / Fluted sleeves / Curved hemlines / Ticker tape trims / Deconstructed tape details / Tie details
Accessories + Footwear: White slip-on sneakers
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