Apr 25, 2017 | By Sandy Chu
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New York: In the past, Gilles Mendel has tended towards airy fabrics and feminine design details, such as pleats and ruffles. His ethereal S/S 13 collection was a perfect example. For Pre-Fall, however, Mendel pushed aside the frills and instead opted for less adorned looks and more substantial fabrics. The heavy metallic jacquard that appeared for a skirt in the first look signaled that this offering would be a departure. Chunky tweeds, double-faced wool, and leathers followed. The pieces took on boxy silhouettes that connected them to 60s Mod styles, and dropped waists were also a nod to the era. As the looks went on, bits of feminine detail began sneaking in. There were a handful of peplums and flounces, and eveningwear featured intricate piecing, lace appliqués, and bustier elements. It seems Mendel just couldn’t help himself. Despite these occurrences of frou, the main takeaway was his exploration of a more pared-down aesthetic. He was pushing his boundaries, and though his clients may miss the girlier pieces, they will find many desirable separates in this offering.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Boxy / A-line / Dropped flounce / Mermaid
Color: Bronze / Black / Camel / Winter white / Dark chocolate / Pewter / Burgundy / Blush
Key Items: Bronze jacquard skirt / Pieced tweed shifts / Peplum tops / Fur jackets / Eveningwear
Materials: Metallic jacquard / Plush fur / Slick leather / Tweed / Double-faced wool / Felted wool / Chiffon / Metallic silks / Silk charmeuse
Print + Pattern: Abstract flowers / Texture patterns / Horizontal stripes
Details + Trim: Fur trim / Peplums / Sequins / Piecing / Zippers / Flounces / Cutouts / Lace appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Mid-calf socks / Pointy-toe Mary Janes
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