Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Drawing inspiration from traditional dress and textiles around the world, Dai Fujiwara presented an ambitious spring collection that put his own stamp on the Miyake name. With such far-ranging influences, the focus of the collection was hard to pin down, as the palette transitioned between icy pastels, bubbly brights and murky vegetals. What did unite the collection were the brand’s signatures — pleated synthetics, three-dimensional textures and architectural silhouettes. Raw-edged fractals of fabric formed a dynamic patchwork for cocoon-shaped coats and baggy pants. A basket-weave motif appeared throughout, in small and large scales, sometimes composed out of actual strips and other times using a heat process to create waffle-like creases. Fujiwara also used unconventional materials and methods to create the illusion of traditional elements. He re-imagined Native American dress with a shredded knit tricot that gave the appearance of openwork crochet, while laser cut lamé replaced feathers on a necklace. Tattoo-like tights accompanied these wearable objets d’art, in Turkish, Celtic, tribal and Art Deco motifs and ombré-patterned watercolors. Although there was no clear message in the collection, there seemed to be something for everyone, showing that the designer possesses a boundless creative energy.
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