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Issey Miyake

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TECHNICAL MAGIC

Paris: Although creative director Dai Fujiwara cited ghosts as the inspiration behind the Issey Miyake S/S 11 collection, it was, as usual, the house’s impressive fabric manipulations that stole the show. High tech pleating techniques and cutout effects made for garments that felt futuristic – but also soft and gentle. Yet there was a spooky element that reflected Fujiwara’s otherworldly inspiration. Optical illusions created by digital prints, clever constructions, and strategic styling were at the root of the collection’s eerie undertones. Two versions of the same black and white motif, one more skewed than the other, were pieced together to create a breezy tent dress that tricked the eye. Tactile separates were styled with items that had been digitally printed to look as though they possessed the same textures – but did not. Fujiwara’s magic tricks aside, there were many wearable looks. A convertible vest-jacket with removable leather sleeves was both cool and practical, and sheer free-flowing gowns constructed out of mesh strips were versatilely sporty and dressy. Whether or not Fujiwara’s supernatural vision was communicated, the resulting collection delivered some solid pieces.

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