May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: With a feather in her hat and a passport in her embroidered satchel, the Issa girl was ready for adventure this season. Like Henry Holland, who also showed in London today, Daniella Helayel mined the 70s for inspiration, an era she began to show a fondness for last season. For summer she vacationed to her native Brazil, for F/W 13 the souks and exotic gardens of Marrakech looked to be her destination. Hers is the 70s of Mick and Marianne, Yves and Talitha. It’s an iconic fashion moment that has been mined countless times, but that doesn’t make its fur-lined suede patchwork coats, caftan dresses, mirrored embellishments, abundant prints, and laissez-faire silhouettes any less enticing. Bohemia jibes well with Issa and it was nice to see Helayel tone it down from last season’s blindingly bright tropical colors to work with rich, earthy autumnal hues—much more suited to her brand-boosting fan, Kate Middleton. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: 70s / Long-line / Caftan
Color: Shades of brown—from Taupe to sable to chocolate / Mustard / Burnt orange / Sienna / Sand / Gold / Black / Vanilla / Ochre / Moss / Iris / Stone
Key Items: Blanket coats / Caftan dresses / Fur wraps / Long fur-line suede patchwork coat / Long knitted fur vest / Velvet suits / Mongolian lamb chubbies / Pussy-bow blouses / Shift dresses / Loose silk pants / Suede pants and capes
Materials: Silk / Wool / Jersey / Cashmere / Fur / Velvet / Mongolian lamb fur / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: 70s geometric patterns / Blanket stripes / Liberty florals / Leaf print / Diamond print
Details + Trim: Mirror embroidery / Ostrich feathers / Wrap belts / Turtlenecks
Accessories + Footwear: Suede ankle and knee-high boots / Peep-toe sandals / Embroidered cross-body satchels / Felt hats / Opaque tights
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