Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Hawksmill Denim Co. – not just another jeans brand.
As many of our regular denim readers are aware, there’s no shortage of premium denim brands today. With raw denim becoming a staple in many of todays males’ (and females’) wardrobes, there have been a ton of new and unfamiliar brands popping up in the market – which has been more than overwhelming and confusing for both us and yourselves, I’m sure. One brand that we’ve picked up amongst the noise is Hawksmill Denim Co. which is launching this fall.
Brainchild of denim veteran Fraser Trewick, Hawksmill is amongst the growing number of British denim brands (Story mfg., Endrime, Dawson) that are flying the indigo flag for the UK. Based out of Brighton, Fraser has been hard at work over the past few years building this personal project and finely tuning his fits and fabrics. We first met Fraser at Seek in Berlin, where he launched the label to press and buyers with his debut collection of raw denim goods and separates.
Targeting the purist denim buyer and newcomers alike, the fall collection features a select five fits that pay close attention to historic manufacturing techniques while keeping a balance of contemporary style and quality construction. Each pair of jeans is handcrafted using Cone’s White Oak selvedge denim and comes raw and ready to be beaten. Alongside the jeans are two denim jackets, a pleated Type-II and regular trucker fit, as well as a number of chore coat styles in cotton twill and twisted yarn constructions. We spoke to Fraser to find out a little more behind the brand and his inspirations.
Can you tell us a little bit about your background in the denim industry?
I have worked in the fashion industry for over 20 years, starting as a shop floor assistant at the Duffer of St George in the early 90s. Since then I have worked as a buyer and more recently building both UK and International Sales for Nudie Jeans Co.
As a new brand in what is said to be saturated denim market, how have you tried to drive point of interest through Hawksmill?
We have tried to create a brand which adheres to historic manufacturing techniques but has a contemporary approach to fit.
We love the clean branding of Hawksmill. What was your inspiration behind this?
We draw our inspiration from historic English and European workwear. Although the Americans popularized denim in the 20th century, Europe has its own rich design history from which to draw from. The aesthetics of our branding reflect this.
All your jeans are produced the original way with an acute attention to detail. Are you an avid collector of vintage? What pieces did you look to for inspiration for your pant fits?
I have always bought vintage clothing but the influence comes through more in the design details rather than fit. I usually find that vintage fits are not always that relevant, so we tend to work on these creatively from scratch.
There are a growing number of brands coming out of the UK now (Story MFG, Dawson, Huit). How do you feel about brands bringing domestic production back to the UK?
I think it’s a great thing for people to be producing clothes domestically. There is a high demand for brands that are made in the UK amongst more educated consumer markets such as Japan. This appreciation is also growing on a domestic level.
Producing domestically can also provide new brands with the flexibility they require in order to get started.
How have you seen the raw denim scene grow amongst men in the UK over the past five years?
There has always been a denim consumer that appreciates the qualities of raw denim. Recently this area has seen considerable growth due to the sharing of information on the Internet. It’s still a small part of the market but thankfully one that continues to grow.
Plans for expanding the brand in the future?
We just want to get even better at what we already do.
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