Mar 23, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
Denim veteran Jimmy Taverniti returns to the fold this summer with the launch of his third premium jeanswear brand, D-ID. Stylesight caught up with the designer to find out more behind the brand in this exclusive interview.
Jimmy Taverniti is one of a select few designers that have helped revolutionize the denim and casualwear market. Begging in Europe in the ’80s and influenced by American vintage, Jimmy was among the first select few creatives to develop the highly specialized techniques to emulate and redefine vintage denim. His vision of mixing couture with vintage, through his namesake label and Taverniti So Jeans, created an original look that earned him a strong loyal following in some of the best stores across the world. For F/W 13 he set about redefining the denim aesthetic once again, with the launch of his third venture, D-ID.
An acronym for Denim Identity, D-ID draws influence from the three cities – New York (its design home), Los Angeles and Paris. Melding East Coast edge, West Coast ease and Parisian refinement, the brand offers a subtle and sophisticated approach to premium denim, evolving trends by applying innovative techniques to classic silhouettes. While the fits are basic, the details are anything but. Some of the standout signature details for spring 2014 include textured destruction accents like decorative needle punch techniques, controlled shredding as well as diamond quilting and high-shine, transparent waxed coatings applied over subtle prints and double-dyed styles.
With such a detailed collection we spoke with Designer and Founder Jimmy Taverniti to find out the process that goes behind these incredible jeans:
For those that don’t know, what’s the basis behind D-ID and how did it originate?
D-ID stands for denim identity – it started out of my desire to bring the focus back to authentic denim and apply creative techniques to classic silhouettes. The first collection was for Fall 2013, at a time when the bright, printed denim trend was at it’s peak, and it felt very refreshing to return to more classic blue denim.
You’ve got quite a past in the denim industry, for example back in the ’80s you pioneered the “American Vintage Style” in Europe and your past labels ‘Jimmy Taverniti’ and ‘Taverniti So Jeans’ are recognized for their innovative approach. What has been the biggest changes you have seen in the denim industry over the years ?
Today, everyone wears jeans. Denim is such a huge part of our everyday wardrobe, even at offices. As a result, the entire industry has evolved significantly and the quality of denim, as well as the fits and treatments, have come a long way.
What would you say is different about your approach this time around with D-ID?
With D-ID, I wanted to start with a solid foundation of great fits and classic washes, and then update them by applying innovative techniques. Our signature has become the diamant, or diamond, quilt stitching.
D-ID is based out of New York but it combines that aesthetics of LA and Paris. How would you say denim aesthetic differs between each city?
Each city has its own unique style, and D-ID is a combination of the three—New York edge, LA ease, and Parisian refinement.
The US-based, premium denim market has exploded over the last 10 years, how has that altered the way the denim industry works for you?
It’s had a tremendous impact on my business, and I’m now able to design, manufacture and sell a product all within the USA. It has also allowed more opportunity for collaboration within the industry.
With so many brands producing out of Asia, why is it so integral that people support “Made In the USA” products such as D-ID?
I’m a big supporter of the “Slow Food” movement, and believe the same theory should be applied to denim. Products that are made in the USA not only support the local economy, but American factories also have national standards and regulations in place that guarantee a quality product and safe working conditions.
Could you explain to us a little bit about the fabrics and process that each product undertakes as its made?
We use high-quality Japanese and Italian fabrics, which are then distressed to make them feel effortlessly broken in. We have a vintage wash, which uses an eco-friendly process free of water or chemicals. The result is an incredibly soft denim that makes the jeans feel like they’ve been worn for over 20 years.
The collection features some beautiful refined destruction details – like the diamand needle punching. Can you explain in more detail about these finishes and what else we should expect for S/S 14?
For spring, we used a “needlemania” technique that creates small holes in the denim in various patterns, resulting in a textured, almost mesh-like effect. Looking ahead also developed a new embroidery technique for Fall, and stitching a plaid fabric directly into the denim, mixing the two materials into one. This embroidery is done in our classic diamond stitch pattern, giving the jeans a subtle texture.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.