Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Milan: ‘Paratactic levels’ headed the show notes which in the designer’s terms means ‘the juxtaposition between material surfaces and the creation of unexpected matchings’. For the beautiful collection that Gabriele Colangelo sent out for Autumn Winter he said –” our collection has two directions, the line of the garments and the other is the choice of the fabrics”. The development of volumes and forms of the collection lay within the metal circles that linked every layer to each other via a web of material – giving twists and folds and intersecting in unexpected ways – at necklines and hems as well as cutting dimensionally around the rigorous silhouette. The knitwear was handmade using five different yarns and mixed stitches provocatively in long tunic dresses and wraps. The jewelry, designed by WXYZ from New York, came in circular elements of colour-coated wrought metal, but it started with the trousers, defying construction restraints and wound around the leg opening in to high splits. To call out that the key items without description does not do justice to this carefully crafted, thought provoking collection. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: The juxtaposition of two images or fragments without connection!
Key Items: All-in-0ne / Tunic dresses / Split trousers / Asymmetrical tunics / Knit dresses / Wrapped asymmetrical dresses / Fur coats / Tailored suit / Shell top
Colour: Raspberry / Black / Grey / Off-white / Camel / Blue / Sapphire grey
Trims and Materials: Suede / Wool / Rimy-effect shearling / Double crepe / Nylon / Curly mohair / Compact mélange yarns / Wool jersey
Print and Pattern: Chevrons
Footwear and Accessories: Circular wrought iron necklaces and bracelets / Double bag / Clutch
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