Intricate craftsmanship at Gabriele Colangelo

Milan: ‘Paratactic levels’ headed the show notes which in the designer’s terms means ‘the juxtaposition between material surfaces and the creation of unexpected matchings’. For the beautiful collection that Gabriele Colangelo sent out for Autumn Winter he said –” our collection has two directions, the line of the garments and the other is the choice of the fabrics”. The development of volumes and forms of the collection lay within the metal circles that linked every layer to each other via a web of material – giving twists and folds and intersecting in unexpected ways – at necklines and hems as well as cutting dimensionally around the rigorous silhouette. The knitwear was handmade using five different yarns and mixed stitches provocatively in long tunic dresses and wraps. The jewelry, designed by WXYZ  from New York, came in circular elements of colour-coated wrought metal, but it started with the trousers, defying construction restraints and wound around the leg opening in to high splits. To call out that the key items  without description does not do justice to this carefully crafted, thought provoking collection. – Lizzy Bowring

Theme: The juxtaposition of two images or fragments without connection!

Key Items: All-in-0ne / Tunic dresses / Split trousers / Asymmetrical tunics / Knit dresses / Wrapped asymmetrical dresses / Fur coats / Tailored suit / Shell top

Colour: Raspberry / Black / Grey / Off-white / Camel / Blue / Sapphire grey

Trims and Materials: Suede / Wool / Rimy-effect shearling / Double crepe / Nylon / Curly mohair / Compact mélange yarns / Wool jersey

Print and Pattern: Chevrons

Footwear and Accessories: Circular wrought iron necklaces and bracelets / Double bag / Clutch

View more images in CATWALK GALLERY

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.