Jan 17, 2017 | By WGSN Insider
As I scan through my loose-leaf scribbles of notes for the day, a few words pop out: bricks, spiders, bruised vegetables. Yikes! Okay, while they all had a part in the Interfilière trend forum, they do not exactly represent the sum of the show.
From the forum to the conferences, the word “synergy” kept on coming up. The convergence of intimates and ready-to-wear, the melding of lounge and active, technology re-imagining the traditional, cooperation between countries, manufacturing vs. consumption, juxtaposition, balance et al.
The consumer is getting savvier. They want pieces that last, that can take them from morning breakfast to cocktail hour. Fashion, in general, seems to be shifting in a more casual direction. This is prime time for intimate apparel. Function and comfort are still of the utmost importance, but now pieces must also have fashion appeal and be nice to look at. This is the era of women wearing pajamas to the office and the red carpet, after all.
Let’s get specific. Today, we explored the trend forum at Interfilière, the fabric portion of the double-header trade extravaganza. These materials set the mood for the upcoming design season. Collections exhibited an, overall, marked restraint compared to past seasons, which isn’t to say there wasn’t any whimsy or edge. It was a relaxed sophistication that permeated the space of the “Celestial Sphere”, elevating the most basic and loosening the corset ties on traditional “glamour.”
Fabrics were ultra lightweight and super-soft. Italian lace-maker Iluna Group just unveiled the finest stretch lace on the market using a 20-denier yarn, an innovation that shows why they were named Designer of the Year by Interfilière.
Shine was another big story. Sparkle can quickly turn into an Ice Capades laundry bin, but the latest iteration has more of a spiritual, otherworldly quality. It is provocative and alluring because it’s mysterious and so feminine. It conjures the sea and the air, goddesses and mythical creatures.
As expected, colors, too, were delicate and muted, from the pastels to the midtones. Carrying over from the Shanghai show, spice oranges and reds brought some heat to collections. The new story here was the amount of greys <insert inevitable pun>, mostly on the cool side but running from dove to gunmetal. Also, gorgeous browns, shades of mocha and espresso mixed with luscious creams – good enough to eat!
Hungering for more? Watch this blog for more updates from the shows, and stay tuned for our full report on stylesight.com.
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