May 11, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Aug 25, 2011
Every year, there are a slew of new skin care ingredient launches that get increasingly efficacious and sophisticated. Below are a few worth noting.
– Shiseido Discovers Anti-aging Ingredient 1PP (1-Piperidine Propionic Acid)
New anti-aging ingredient 1PP (1-piperidine propionic acid) was discovered by Shiseido earlier this year. Shiseido discovered that repeat increases in the rogue protein, serpin b3, causes an accumulation of damage in the epidermis and negatively affects the basement membrane and dermis that accelerates the aging of skin. High concentrations of the amino acid derivative 1PP are effective in controlling the aging of the skin, inhibiting the production of serpin b3 and in rejuvenating damaged skin. 1PP will be used in future anti-aging products.
– Cytokalmine For Sensitive Skin
Over 50% of men and women experience skin sensitivity. Alban Muller ‘s Cytokalmine was developed specifically for sensitive skin. It reduces the secretion of inflammatory styokiness as well as the overproduction of free radicals that makes it a soothing agent. According to Alban Muller, “Cytokalmine is a dry extract of Carthaginian berry (Punica granatum) and is concentrated in polyphenols, espeically in tannins (Punicalagin) and ellagic derivative and stabilized in a maltitol carrier.” It also protects the skin from premature aging. It can be infused in formulas for eye, skin and body care as well as anti-aging, after-sun and men’s care.
Images from Cosmetics & Toiletries
– Nu Skin’s Salicin Promotes Youth
Salicin is an active ingredient unique to NuSkin ageLOC skin care products. In a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Salicin was reported to protect cells from damage caused by external stress factors and UV exposure through regulation of skin genes to promote youthfulness. The proteins known as heat shock proteins (HSPs) work to protect cells and ensure proper functioning and cell repair. This makes HSPs important for “topical ingredients that address skin aging, repair and protection from damaging conditions.” Salicin induces the expression of proteins associated with hylauronic acid, certain HSPs and HSP regulators but also “down regulated genes that inhibit HSP expression.” It also down regulated the MMP9 gene that is involved in the degradation of collagen. This two-pronged approach results in effective protection of cells from stress-induced damage.“This study is one of several projects that the R&D team has successfully published to validate Nu Skin’s ageLOC approach of improving the appearance of skin by resetting the expression of genes associated with youthful skin,” said Nu Skin scientist Helen Knaggs, Ph.D., vice president of Nu Skin global research and development.
More information at Cosmeticsdesign.com
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