Paris: Was this a tongue in cheek light-hearted poke at all the fur that has dominated the Autumn/Winter Collections? No, but there were hand-rendered illustrations …
Paris: Was this a tongue in cheek light-hearted poke at all the fur that has dominated the Autumn/Winter Collections? No, but there were hand-rendered illustrations depicting foxes, deer, otters and rabbits while a witty rendition of a pom-pom stole was nonchalantly draped over shoulders. The summery atmosphere for this fun-filled collection from Pheobe Philo, was aided by the Brazilian musician of Caetano Veloso playing in the background and along with the setting of wood-grain pillars and terra-cotta tiles, provided a genuine artisanal feel. There were crochet and hand-rendered appliques on the intricate body slim dresses, colour-blocked silk slip-dresses exposing layers at the back, in fact, nearly every piece exposed back interest. Philo also continued with her own inimitable touch – contrast overstitching, ribbed knits – with built-in conical bras – and ‘Duvet’ coats (where the sleeves buttoned off and peeled away at the shoulders) to the buttery leather drawcord coats, overized shoppers and bejeweled shoes. There was a great deal of creative maximalism served up with an expression of freedom and playfulness. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: Tattered glamour and playfulness.
Key Items: Ribbed crewneck / Bi-colour slip dress / Pieced leather dress / Gathered leather coat / Wool tunic / Asymmetrical cape / Quilted stole / Ribbed knit dress / Printed shirts / Deep V all-in-one / Down-filled coats / Fluid cropped trousers / Ribbed tunic / Quilted skirt / Artisanal dresses / Coats with fur trim
Colour: Black / Cream / Burnt orange / Russet / Sunshine yellow / Red
Trims and Materials: Silk satin / Leather / Ribbed wool knit / Silk charmeuse
Print and Pattern: Abstract zebra / Hand rendered creatures – Fox, Deer, Mink, Rabbit.
Footwear and Accessories: Cross body flat bags / Oversized tote / Skate sneakers / Block-heeled sock-shoe / Bejeweled shoes / Over-the-shoulder stole