May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE EIGHTIES RESURRECTED
Milan: The 80s have been resurrected many times over in the past few seasons, but Paolo Gerani’s translation for F/W 13 may have been the most literal renewal yet. Hewing to a boxy, wide-shoulder silhouette that tapered to the knees and ankles, the collection had all the graphic banality beloved during the yuppie decade. From two-tone colorblocking to wide stripes and goofy cartoons, this was pure Max Hedroom kitsch, executed with plenty of intarsia knit tops and long sweater dresses. Bottoms were pleated at the hip and tight at the ankle, in both stretch twill menswear styles and bright, shiny leather. Gerani’s key details also proved period correct and included batwing sleeves, zippers, cowl necks and colored sequins, while accessories like asymmetric pumps, elbow-length gloves and wide leather belts cinched with ring closures arrived as if conjured from a retro time machine.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Relaxed & slouchy / Tapered / Boxy with strong shoulders / Asymmetric
Color: Black / White / Soft beige / Clear turquoise / Lemon / Fuchsia / Rose
Key Items: 80s style intarsia knit tops / Wide shoulder overcoats / Pleated tapered trousers / Sweater dresses / Pencil skirts / Cropped leather jackets / Sequin t-shirts
Materials: Mohair / Leather / Bonded wool / Stretch jersey / Twill / Space dye knits / Fur
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Colorblocking / Abstract florals / Psychedelic swirls
Details + Trim: Batwing sleeves / Asymmetric collars / Leather patches / Cowel necks / Pleating / Shoulder padding / Fur embellishments / Ribbing / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Colorblocked heels and gloves / 80s corset belts with circle closures / Snoods / Pumps with diagonal straps / Leather gloves / Pointed over-the-knee boots
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