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Iceberg

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LADYLIKE GRUNGE

Milan: Iceberg veered its new collection into a completely different direction from spring’s Mickey Mouse-inspired offering, instead re-imagining Hitchcock’s fatalistic heroine Kim Novak raiding James Stewart’s wardrobe in Vertigo. Designer Paolo Gerani took Novak’s ladylike mid-century styles and made them less prissy by adding grunge elements from the 90s. No ensemble looked overly classic or too edgy, and there was a balance between masculine and feminine elements. Having been popular in both the 60s and the 90s, buffalo checks bridged the gap, and looked right for suiting separates as well as an oversized flannel button-up, worn with a lacquered pencil skirt. Ratty rows of yarn fringe brought a nice messiness to a knitted sheath dress; the same fringe edged Chanel-like jackets and made for furry outerwear. For more boy-meets-girl style, Gerani paired masculine trousers with soft sweaters and spectator heels, and offered an array of dresses that were modeled after men’s shirting styles. Overscaled houndstooth tweeds were used for coats and for long slim skirts with high slits, adding a graphic element. The design choices were smart and the palette restrained; Gerani didn’t try too hard to be clever. The resulting collection was versatile, understated and still very stylish.

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