Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan S/S 2013

Hussein Chalayan S/S 2013

Paris: The marriage of technology and form has always fascinated Hussein Chalayan, and he played with that notion again for spring. His experiments in high-tech have created innovative yet un-wearable clothing in the past, but this was not the case for his current collection. Chalayan even erred on the side of banal for some looks. One halfway expected a rather boring shirtdress to transform into something else; unfortunately, it didn’t. But as the show went on, Chalayan began to insert the futuristic elements his followers have come to expect. It started with a chemical shade of lime green and a curved neckline. Then there were dresses that looked flat as placards at first glance. On closer examination, one found they were stitched down in an hourglass shape that followed the contours of the body. Rounded shoulders and stiff folds enhanced a sporty passage, and the collection ended with digital prints. The first was a photorealistic image of a pile of trashed clothes – perhaps a commentary on the proliferation of high street stores and “throw-away” trends? – while the final motif depicted elegant black and white marble. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Boxy / A-line / Hourglass / Columnar / Rounded

Color: While / Lime green / Neon yellow / Royal blue / Tan / Black / Bright red / Bottle green / Goldenrod

Key Items: Culottes / Placard dresses / Constructed hourglass dresses / Collarless jackets

Materials: Crinkled cotton / Chambray / Waffle-textured suitings / Cotton shirtings / Smooth silk suitings / Mesh / Chiffon / Organza / Iridescent plastic

Print + Pattern: Photorealistic piles of clothing / Marble

Details + Trim: Mesh panels / Contrast lapels, sleeves and trim / Rounded shoulders / Origami folding / Veiling / Peplums

Accessories + Footwear: Wide-brimmed hats with colored plastic front brims / Ankle-strap pointy-toe ankle boots / Pointy-toe mules


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