Hussein Chalayan

Paris: Hussein Chalayan is an intellectual and high-concept designer, working in the same category as innovators like Martin Margiela to develop a niche following and editorial respect. But Chalayan’s recent collections are increasingly accessible, and F/W 12 furthered that direction with simple silhouettes and wearable pieces like molded sheath dresses, elongated suit jackets and slim trousers. The innovation came via a progressive palette of bright neons, heather grey, teal and forest green, as well as flashes of metallic leather exposed beneath cutout panels and lightweight quilting. Collaborating with the manufacturer of Palladium, Chalayan created metal faux-necklaces woven into dresses to create an angular effect mimicking the collection’s graphic construction and futuristic colorblocking. With a varied range of outerwear, clean sheaths and clever separates, the designer will gain broader appeal for his forward-thinking minimalism this Fall.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Body-conscious / Boxy / Long / Lean / Cocoon

Color: Cherry red / Burgundy / Sherbet orange / Tangerine / Teal / Grey / Mint / Rust / Black / Silver / Forest green / Stone / Russian blue / Nude / Bright yellow / Navy / Caramel

Key Items: Tunic dresses / Slim trousers / Boxy blazers / Cocoon jackets / Turtlenecks / Molded short-sleeved jackets / Elongated blazers / Sleeveless cape jackets / Metallic leggings / Floor-length gowns / Quilted jackets / Short-sleeved sheath dresses

Materials: Stretch cashmere / Wool / Jersey / Bonded wool / Leather / Hologram stretch leather

Print + Pattern: Color-blocking / Abstract brushstrokes and geometrics

Details + Trim: Palladium metal neck embellishments / Oversize collars / Zippers / Funnel necks / Hoods / Metallic bibs / Self-belts / Quilting / Cutouts

Accessories + Footwear: Pumps / Lace-up loafers / Metallic sneakers


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