Hussein Chalayan

: Fresh off his retrospective at Les Arts Décoratifs, Hussein Chalayan found inspiration this season in his own body of work. While the conceptual designer has gradually scaled back on the mathematic and scientific gimmicks that colored his early portfolio, he could not resist a few brainteasers this season. The show was appropriately set within an art gallery context, as the designer, himself, served models flutes of champagne. Each glass was embedded with a camera, which then transmitted images from the models mouths onto big screens. While the meaning behind the multimedia display may have been lost, the clothes were, thankfully, far more straightforward. The suit jacket was a recurring motif, appearing in elongated form and dissected over swishy full skirts. Floaty slip dresses looked fresh in blurred Japanese garden prints, and digitized tapestry florals perfectly encapsulated the past-versus-present theme in the collection. Folkloric embroideries that also referenced his past work added a humble warmth to all the minimalist surfaces. Finally, the closing dress – a double layered sheath folded unto itself – had just the right amount of trickery and easy, undeniable elegance. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Boxy / Straight

Color: Nude blush / Dove grey / Melon / Lemon / Seafoam

Key Items: Open-back sheath / Dolphin shorts / Maxi slip dress / Apron top / Gored skirt / Elongated blazer

Print + Pattern: Tapestry florals / Blurred Japanese garden scene

Materials: Chiffon / Leather / Silk suitings / Loosely woven canvas / Iridescent foil / Terrycloth

Details + Trim: Asymmetrical draping / Back cutouts / Welt pockets / Folkloric embroideries

Accessories + Footwear: Nude mules / Visored kerchief / Wired floppy hat

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