Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Feb 22, 2015
London: In London’s historic Guildhall, with a haunting backdrop of stain glassed windows and somber lighting, the atmosphere was set for what unfolded to be a collection d’Arte. Simone Rocha looked to the work of Louise Bourgeois and her 1991 work Mamelles – “a large-scale wall relief in which a series of female breasts have been moulded within a horizontal frieze” – but perhaps it was more the message behind these sculptures that made up the dark and slightly seditious element to this collection – here was a fine balance between the sculptural and artistic boundaries. The rounded and padded shapes – looking not dissimilar to petals of the shamrock, were sculptured and wrapped around the female form. The use of chenille brocades and tapestry florals were a stark contrast to the striking red plaids while the black velvet dresses, tapestry cloaks, little suits, sheer frilled chiffon dresses and willow-the-whisp silhouettes in the lightest of pink, embellished with floral petals looked positively regal, even the models wrapped hair was anointed with pearls. The extraordinary talent of Rocha whose keen sensibility, from the use of heritage richness in materials paired with dramatic shapes made this presentation truly a Piece d’Art. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: Victorian Romance in sculptural dimensions
Key Items: Ruffled silk dresses / Balloon sleeve coats / Lace pencil skirts / Tapestry capes / Tapestry dresses / Velvet dresses / Trapeze jackets / Shorts /
Colour: Pink / Black / Red
Materials and Trims: Tweed / Chenille yarns / Tapestry materials / Velvet / Organza / Lace / Tulle / Embroidery / Fur / Silk satin
Print and Pattern: Tapestries / Petals / Tapestry florals
Accessories and Footwear: Sculpted heel Mary Janes / Plaid lace-ups / Velvet flats / Sculpted handbags / Fur bag
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