Historical references blend with modernity at Dior

Paris: Raf Simons presented his Spring/Summer collection for the house of Dior in the Louvre’s Cour Carree – a fitting venue for this exquisite show. Simons continued his historical references to the 18th century, blending key pieces with a futuristic mindset. Was there also a transition from Court to boudoir here? It would appear so – in the light cotton broderie anglaise dresses, smocks and cropped knitted jackets (with a techno-sport application) bearing sprigs of floral embroidery. References to Dior’s original bar suit came in the hourglass shapes of the jackets and suits – detailed at the hips with oversized buttons. However, it was the nod to the frock coat with the emphasis on the cut that appeared in many of the silhouettes, from shapely coats and jackets with edged splits to the satin gilets in vibrant color. Simons said, “you see so many clothes that have so much stuff on them that I started to think more about actual construction. Also because that’s what Christian Dior did so much — an architectural approach.” – Lizzy Bowring

Silhouette: Ovoid and slim 

Key Items: Gilet / Quilted drawstring Bermuda shorts / Slim trousers with brocade cuffs / Full skirts / Smock dresses / All-in-one / Bomber jackets / Frock coat / Pantsuit 

Colour: White / Pale pink / Orange / Black / Periwinkle / Hot pink / Deep cherry pink / Claret

Print and Pattern: Sprigged florals / Delicate floral embroidery

Materials and Trim: Chintz / Cotton / Broderie anglaise / Jacquard / Linen / Satin-linen / Grommets / Leather / Tiny covered buttons

Footwear: Knitted boots / Pointed toe heels

Accessories: Quilted shoulder bags / Chain metal chokers / Leather belts / Cuffs


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