Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Christophe Lemaire’s debut collection for the storied house of Hermès melded classic lines with Asian influences. The designer worked creamy multi-ply cashmeres and buttery leathers into elongated caftans, kurtas, and kimonos in a palette of desert tones highlighted by imperial ruby, amber and jade. Accessories included obi belts and miniature bags that resembled Chinese snuff boxes. Silhouettes were loose-fitting and boxy; key pieces included drop-waisted sweaters, oversized tunics and floor-length capes. The signature Hermès scarf turned up as silky dresses and blouses, and a Bauhaus-inspired geometric print added to the vague 1920s feeling that permeated the collection. A series of strictly tailored separates was trimmed in leather and paired with trousers that extended into boots. Lacoste-alumni Lemaire rose to the occasion with this ultra-luxe effort, a fitting follow-up to Jean Paul Gaultier’s well-received swan song last season. It will be interesting to see where he takes the well-traveled Hermès next.
Color: Ivory / White / Butter / Mustard / Khaki / Burgundy / Poppy / Teal / Turquoise / Black / Pale gold / Dust / Jade
Key Items: Kimonos / Kurtas / Caftans / Roll neck sweaters / Leather pants / Boxy coats
Materials: Cashmere / Silk / Suede / Leather / Ponyskin / Sheepskin
Print + Pattern: Snakeskin print / Geometric prints / Quilting / Stripes
Details + Trim: Leather trim / Fur lining / Fringe / Tassels
Accessories + Footwear: Braided leather belts / Fur hats / Oversized bangles / Leather gloves / Ankle strap / Pendant necklaces / Leather caps
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