Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: For spring, Christophe Lemaire seemed to ruminate on the elements that make the venerable house of Hermès what it is. The celebrated scarves were tied to models’ wrists or looped around their necks, and the patterns – some featuring Hawaiian landscapes – worked their way onto the garments, as well. Delicate renderings of flora and fauna made for a memorable long-sleeved sheath and chic versions of pajama shorts. Lemaire acknowledged the importance of leather at the house with clean-lined leather tees, suede pencil skirts, croc shorts, and a sophisticated motorcycle jacket. Harnesses and utility details were a nod to house’s early days, and woven leathers honored its dedication to craftsmanship. Though the pacing of the show was somewhat jarring – bright mixed prints alternated with passages of serene minimalist looks – and odd extended side panels ruined a few garments, Lemaire’s sophisticated and spare looks did justice to the house’s rich heritage. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Boxy / A-line / Roomy / Slim
Color: Teal / Lemon yellow / White / Tan / Dove grey / Cream / Khaki / Pumpkin / Cinnamon / Black / Bright blue / Mahogany / Goldenrod / Fiery red
Key Items: Croc shorts / Scarf print dress / Leather motorcycle jacket / Suede tees
Materials: Luxe leather / Powdery suede / Fluid silks / Summer suitings / Denim / Twill / Canvas / Crisp cotton
Print + Pattern: Scarf prints featuring birds and palm trees / Geometrics
Details + Trim: Boat necklines / Weaving / Contrast trim / Zippers / Gusset pockets / Leather panels / Extended side panels
Accessories + Footwear: Scarves (worn around neck or tied around wrists) / Leather harnesses / Suspenders / Thumb- and fingerless wrist gloves / Chunky metal bangles / Wide leather belts / Fold-over clutches / Large carry-all bags / Pointy-toe high-heeled loafers
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