Paris: Hermes’ Christophe Lemaire evoked a nomadic aesthetic for Fall, drawing inspiration from the piled on layers of South American gauchos to the peasantry and folklore of Russia’s grassy steppes. The designer opened the show with a luxe take on the gaucho. Peeking out from beneath serape-like sweaters and wrapped blanket coats were baggy, pleated leather pants tucked into knee boots; a greyscale palette punctuated with dark brown and deep olive kept the look feeling more sophisticated than eclectic. Transitioning into a less masculine realm, a series of simple all-suede separates in saturated autumnal hues maintained the slouchy silhouette — pants featured pleats and key rib knit cuffs — but shed the hefty layers. Ending things on a feminine note, next came rich pattern-on-pattern ensembles —  loose, peasant-style dresses, paired with contrast-colored hosiery were covered in folkloric Russian florals for a pretty patchworked effect. The ultimate nomad’s garment, the fur vest, worked for both themes, and the casual slouchiness of it all felt very new for the venerable French fashion house.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Baggy + Loose

Color: Black / White / Dark Brown / Grey / Charcoal / Dark Olive / Rust / Burnt Orange / Goldenrod / Deep Teal / Evergreen / Bright Royal Blue

Key Items:  Suede top / Full, pleated leather pants / Sweater cape / Peasant dress / Fur vest

Materials: Shirtings — cotton + wool / Marled knits / Wool + cashmere suitings / Blanket weaves / Silk / Velvet / Tweed / Melton / Suede / Leather / Haircalf / Fur

Print + Pattern: Folkloric Russian florals / Scarf prints / Conversational walking cane motif

Details + Trim: Mixed material piecing / Skinny metal toggles / Wide sleeves / Stand collars  / Wrapped effects / Leather edging / Knit cuffs

Accessories + Footwear: Felt trilbies / Skinny neckties + tie clips / Sautoir necklaces + silver chokers / Leather cuffs / Wristlet minaudiers / Extra-wide belts / Patterned hosiery / Covered vamp pumps + slouchy knee-boots


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