Christophe Lemaire struck a utilitarian note in his second collection for Hermès, that drew on the brand’s legacy of equestrian leather goods, but that also spoke to a stark contemporary minimalism. Leather and suede were abundant in the form of trench coats, maxi skirts, and even leather covered buttons. Though the collection was colorful, many looks were largely monotone, evoking a functional simplicity that underscored the entire collection. Functionality, and perhaps even pedestrianism, was a bit of an obsession for Lemaire here, as the designer explored peasant garb like headscarves, Mao jackets, pantaloons, and even a woodsman’s liquor flask and pouch. However, Lemaire was sure to maintain the brand’s reputation for luxury and exoticism with heavily detailed suede pieces and a distinctive kachina print dress that may have been the collection’s standout piece.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Columnar utilitarian

Color: Bone / China / Pumpkin / Butterscotch / Crimson / Khaki / Caramel / Charcoal / Cobalt / Magenta / Maroon / Black / Forest green / Bumblebee / Teal / Saffron

Key Items: Hooded cloak / Mao jacket / Suede maxi skirt / Sleeveless vest

Materials: Leather / Silk / Suede / Chino

Print + Pattern: Kachina print / Checks / Geometric color blocking

Details + Trim: Rivets / Cotton linings / Leather covered buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Headscarves / Faux sandal leather booties / Heavy leather wrapped bracelets / Handbags / Flask pouch / Silk handkerchief / Silver band necklaces / Leather-canvas tote bags

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