Paris: For this, Jean Paul Gaultier’s final collection for Hermès, he used his characteristic theatricality to create a memorable show, opening the presentation with a dressage performance featuring real horses. Unsurprisingly, given the show’s opening and the house’s horsey heritage, the clothes were equestrian-influenced, but with a seductive edge. Skin-tight jodhpurs were made from slick leather, harnesses that looked like bridle reins wrapped the body, and wide leather waist-cinchers and corsets appeared – but soft volume from dolman-sleeved dresses and flowing skirts tempered the somewhat fetishistic elements. Gaultier celebrated many of Hermès’ iconic items: the Kelly bag accessorized many looks, a signature scarf was made into a top, and the label’s trademark shade of orange was used head-to-toe for a striking ensemble. Gaultier closed his successful stint at the venerable house on a high note, giving his replacement Christophe Lemaire a tough act to follow next season.

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