Paris:For the Hermès fall collection, designer Jean Paul Gaultier cleverly selected a theme of British espionage. The inspiration (drawn from The Avengers, James Bond, and the like) covered a lot of bases. Classic spy silhouettes like trench coats, three piece suits and capes were appropriately timeless for Hermès, as were the dapper menswear-influenced accessories. In keeping with the house’s roots as a maker of bridles and fine leather items like the iconic “Kelly” and “Birken” bags, Gaultier constructed most items out of supple skins. Emphasis was placed on this season’s natural waist, and most of the looks were cinched with a belt. Aside from all the dramatic wrap-around belted coats, suiting made up a large portion of the collection: smart blazers and pencil pants were worn with matching vests, and occasionally a tie. Completing the tailored leather Savile Row-style ensembles were tilted bowler hats and umbrellas. Gaultier only strayed from the predominantly tan, olive, and black color palette a few times, to include a few pops burgundy and, of course, signature Hermès orange.

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