Paris: The Hermès collection today was a picture of insouciant elegance, implementing military touches and hints of the house’s equestrian heritage in a subtle, unfussy way. Layers of leather, cashmere and fur made for a deliciously luxurious show, but designer Christophe Lemaire handled these materials with a modern eye and a light touch. Single-ply leather fashioned into gaucho pants and A-line skirts with exposed seams had the ease of denim, and the neat aviator jackets, blanket wraps and soft wool coats casually draped over models’ shoulders, were all investment-worthy pieces. There was a hint of 70s-era Rive Gauche in the tomboy-meets-relaxed glamour attitude as well as the elevated waistlines and rich, autumnal colors. Towards the end came a lovely surprise by way of a column gown in a photographic geode print with stacked stone bracelets to match. Its singularity summed up the perfectly edited, almost capsule nature of the collection, which—counter to last season’s tropical print-heavy showing—made each piece feel covetable and essential. — Natalie Shukur

Silhouette: Tailored / Military / 70s / high-waist

Color: Olive green / Shades of gray—from bone to storm cloud / Black / White / Camel / Ochre / Coffee / Tan / Electric blue / Russet / Petrol blue / Moss / Bronze

Key Items: Leather pants and skirts / Aviator jackets / Capes / Pinafore dresses / Blanket wraps / Cashmere car coats / Fur coats / Pencil skirts / Blazers / Tailored pants / Cropped jackets / Trench coats / Sheath dresses / Shell tops & dresses / Gaucho pants / Blouses

Materials: Leather / Cashmere / Flannel / Felt / Silk / Velvet / Faux fur / Fur / Suede / Crocodile leather / Jersey

Print + Pattern: Deco stripes / Geode photo print

Details + Trim: Exposed seams / Fur trim / Leather buckles & trim / Bracelet sleeves / Pussy bows

Accessories + Footwear: Shirt leather ankle booties with buckle detail / Low, block heel leather ankle boots / Leather cross-strap open-toe sandals / Slim leather belts / Structured top handle bags / Clutches / Crocodile box bags / Leather wrist cuffs / Stacked, multicolor stone bangles



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