Helmut Lang

The designer duo and couple Nicole and Michael Colovos were influenced by the Guggenheim exhibition, “Picasso Black and White”, as well as Richard Prince’s book, Prince/Picasso. They played with a tonal cubism: “It was very modern and created the foundation to our collection,” said Nicole backstage. The Picasso inspiration was evident in the assemblage of materials and cubist play with color blocking. Many new techniques were used to create complex and intricate designs. Flesh print rubber-treated fabric created interesting effects and metallic leather added a futuristic element, as did the helmet-inspired necklines. The shift tops and dresses could have been taken from any Space Age program. “Helmut Lang isn’t about precious garments; it’s wearable modern clothes for every woman,” said Nicole. “We styled the shifts and dresses with simple second-skin jerseys underneath for comfort.” The designers, best known for slouch and drape, continued last season’s experiment with leaner, more boyish silhouettes. Leather jackets had a cropped, squared-off cut, with biker collars or left collarless. Black pony bomber jackets and rubber-printed jerseys were named Eros and Thunderbolt, while geometric patches of sparkle and silk burnout velvets ended the show on a cubist note. The virtue of this collection was its balance of edginess and wearablity — perfect for everyday urban warriors and space invaders.—Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Minimalist / Lean / Cubist / Tailored

Color: Plaster / Flesh / Ink / Taupe / Heather/ Quartz / Black / Ivory

Key Items: The assemblage coat in leather / Minimalist wrap skirts that hit the knee / Shift dresses / Hooded blue/back fur coats / Stovepipe trousers / Second-skin long-sleeved jerseys

Materials: Leather: bonded, or plain / Silk / Melton / Felt / Pony / Fur / Second-skin jersey

Print + Pattern: Cubist / Brushstrokes / Color and fabric blocking

Details + Trim: Leather and metallic contrasts / Contrasting fabrics and trimmings / Subtle color blocking / Heavy metallic zips and buttons / Long leather straps as zip-pulls / Back slit with contrasting trim

Accessories + Footwear: High boots with wedge heel / Sharp pumps with ankle straps


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