Helmut Lang

New York: Helmut Lang’s F/W 12 collection brought a broody mix of earth, wind, and fire to the runway, that proved quite complementary to the brand’s long running exploration of edgy luxury. The show’s red passage brought to mind the dangerously seductive bubble and crack of volcanic magma. Grounding this high-concept imagery, sportswear from the classic Lang lexicon anchored the collection in its hallmark sleek-tough aesthetic; slim tailored slacks, cut-away jackets, and body-conscious sheath-dresses were at once classic in function and contemporary in attitude. -Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Tailored / Slim / Body conscious / Fluid / Long and languid / Stacked / Belted

Color: Black / White / Sand / Coffee / Cranberry / Malt / Celadon / Silt / Cement

Key Items: Sharply tailored jacket / Modern motorcycle jacket / Luxe-skin legging / Draped “body-con” dress / Chunky-netting sweater / Paint-printed suit / Trailing-hem top

Materials: Wool gabardine suiting / Silk chiffon / Stretch plonge leather / Cobweb lace / Shearling / Goat fur / Stretch matte jersey / Laser-etched leather

Print + Pattern: Obsidian photo-print / Indirect-paint print / Lava photo-print

Details + Trim: Pleating / Contrast Satin Lapel / Faux fur sleeves / Fish-scaled Organza

Accessories + Footwear: Over-the-knee wedge-boot / Wide-width belt / Chunky-knit muffler


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