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Helmut Lang

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COOL GIRL CLASSICS

New York: Without straying from a neutral color palette and draped column silhouette, Nicole and Michael Colovos still managed to create a well-rounded, comprehensive Pre-Fall 11 collection for Helmut Lang that covered all the bases. The label’s refined-hip customer will find something for every occasion in this compact offering. Dresses for day and evening, professional suits, go-to leather jackets, a coat, and breezy blouses (in a range of opacities) were all included. One might fear that neutrals could become boring, but fresh blends of warm tones with cool, and a pretty abstract print, kept colors from feeling dull. The design duo also relied on texture to keep things interesting. Rich leathers were expertly draped, pieced together, and manipulated to look almost weightless; upon first glance it would be difficult to tell that a crisp button-up was crafted from supple skin. Though each ensemble was styled with motorcycle boots – and edgy toughness was undoubtedly part of the look – earthy undertones and gentle chiffons kept it all feminine. Asymmetric and high-low hems supported the soft yet offbeat vibe. Timeless, but not traditional, the offerings felt classically cool.

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