Paris…Gareth Pugh

For his first men’s-only runway collection, London designer Gareth Pugh was bursting forth with as much high concept as possible without breaking through the ceiling of the Palais de Tokyo, where he showed. Horror and sci-fi movies of the ’80s seemed to be the major influence for one of the darkest and edgiest collections shown in Paris for the week, including such blockbusters as Hellraiser, Terminator and Predator. The shiny quilting on suits with extreme roped shoulders had an almost scaly effect like what you’d see on a monster walking out of the sea. An enlarged quilted jacket and overcoat with contrasted panels of technical fabric was intriguing and comforting on the same level (and, yes, more quilted pants for the week). Pugh’s version of a tuxedo, while intense and a bit severe, was worn with no shirt and with a cropped jacket, skinny pants and bulky boots. Needless to say, most items were based in black, but the occassional metallic livened up the collection when appropriate. There were lots of shredded fabrics that became a kind of ornamental trim for the uniforms of his sci-fi solder, and the fur items definitely had a supernatural feel about them. Even though his first men’s outing may not be rooted in much reality, consumer who like extreme style will find some of the pieces useful in their rebellious wardrobes.


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