Head in the Clouds (Jil Sander)

Milan… Raf Simons always has some of the most minimal looks of Milan Fashion Week, but they usually say the most without any unnecessary details. For S/S 10 he seemed to be in a very good mood, almost walking on a literal cloud nine. Looking towards the “limpid eroticism” of the early twentieth-century Japanese artist Tsugoharu Foujita, models all had bowl cuts and wore super clean silhouettes. Delicate t-shirts were lined with gold piping; the airy lightness of the knits were such that we were expecting them to fly off of the models’ backs like a child’s helium balloon. With an overall color palette of black and white, the only real pop of color came from an icy blue nylon trench that radiated a subtle glow rather than demanding its presence. The expected experimental jacket closures and asymmetrical plackets were present, becoming one of Simons’ trademarks. A few knits and woven shirts featured Foujita prints, albeit in a very quiet way. When you think about it, that’s the Jil Sander aesthetic in a nutshell: giving us small details that take up minimal space but say so much.


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